Chef Challenge 2013 Recap

The fifth-annual Durham Farmer's Market Chef Challenge showcased a trio of new contestants, terrific eggplant preparations and great entertainment (and eating) for all.

After Billy Cotter (Toast) announced his retirement following back to back titles in 2011 (okra) and 2012 (sweet potato), market director Erin Kaufman lined up chefs Katie Coleman of Durham Spirits Company, Mike Hacker of Pie Pushers and Justin Rakes of the The Salted Pig (coming soon) to compete for a new, locally-made trophy. She also lined local food guru Susan Sink of Tar Heel Foodie and Independent Weekly food writer Elizabeth Shestak to join me on the judging panel.

The chefs began setting up their workstations at 8:30 a.m. They learned the secret ingredient at nine,  then swept through the market, buying what they needed to feed their three judges as well as a growing crowd of on-lookers.

All the judges were very patient as I hovered over them, watching, learning and asking questions. Katie gave me a quick history lesson on the classic Sicilan pairing of eggplant and cocoa powder as she threw together a caponata of zucchini, peppers, tomatoes, onion garlic, cocoa powder, crushed red pepper, golden raisins and red wine vinegar.

Katie Coleman (right)

Mike and his assistant showed me that eggplant works well with many different types of acids, like apple cider vinegar, which they added to a food processor. They were definitely the most gregarious duo of the group, talking and tasting their way through the cooking process and sharing promoting the Pie Pushers' breakfast menu (breakfast pizza and "the best biscuits you've ever had" smothered in sausage gravy).

Mike Packer (left)

Justin and Scott took advantage of the wide variety of peppers still available at the market, quick-frying Lombardos early and adding padrons late to their eggplant chunks, slices and sauce. Throughout the cooking process, they paused to say "Baba Ghanoush!" with great enthusiasm as audience members tried to pronounce it.

 

Justin Rake (left) and Scott Markin

Eggplant is known throughout Sicily as the "meat of the earth" because its various shapes and sizes, smooth texture and mild flavor makes it versatile enough to serve as a main course. All three judges capitalized on this, as there was no meat on any of the plates. They also provided a lesson in the ingredient's versatility by preparing it nine different ways in just 90 minutes.

Justin Rake's baba ghanoush and warm seasonal salad

Katie Coleman's eggplant burger, eggplant chips
and eggplant pickles

Mike Packer's eggplant four ways: quick pickled
eggplant salad, 8-year aged balsamic eggplant,
double fried eggplant and roasted eggplant puree

While I'd order any of the three off a restaurant menu, we ultimately declared Justin Rake and Scott Markin the winner. Although they had the fewest preparations, their flavors and presentation were fantastic and they make the secret ingredient the star of the show without frying a single piece of it!

Rakes and Markin accepted their honorary purple trophy from
emcee Frank Stasio and shared details about The Salted Pig's
upcoming opening.

It was another successful morning, as I left stuffed and inspired to make more than just pasta Norma with my next batch of eggplant. Thanks again to Erin Kaufman and the DFM staff for inviting me back to judge and look out for more awesome events at the Farmer's Market this fall and winter.